Here’s a round up of my favourite designers who have showcased their latest collection in New York recently, each of which has something completely different to offer.
First up, it’s new favourite and insatiably youthful Alexander Wang. The San Francisco native dazzled the audience of his adopted home with a more grown up collection from s/s 09. This time round his designs featured more tailoring, seen in his suit jackets and the military precision of the cut of his geometrical dress. For a/w the collection is suitably dark but far from gothic: think elegant sex appeal and maturity and you’re on the right track. The midriff exposure is still present for this season, but toned down by its bodycon fit and monotone black. Trousers are tightly fitted and fringed with gem stones, complimented with billowing white off-the shoulder shirts. Aside from this, there is a heavy focus on croc, leather look and pvc. Front row Queen Anna Wintour and daughter Bee Shaffer were amongst the lucky viewers, who also included Zoe Kravitz, Erin Wasson and Santogold. Definitely a crowd cool enough for the designer’s ethos.
Next it’s Rodarte, favourite of Kirsten Dunst. This season is very reminiscent of the futurism already seen at Ghesquière’s take over of Balenciaga: with ultra modern fabrics, bodycon bandaging and layering in pastel shades, combined with daring use of volume and shape. The sister designers have described the collection as inspired by monsters – something that can be seen in the Edward Scissorhands’ esque straight jacket sleeves. I adore the grey shaggy fur belted in jacket and endless black boots. Over on this front row was of course Miss Dunst, not to mention Rachel Zoe and Diane von Furtsenberg, and rather bizarrely Elijah Wood of hobbit fame.
Oh, and how can I forget Marchesa? Last but certainly not least of my top 3 from New York. The collection is all about fairy tales and fantasy: a staple of Marchesa’s wardrobe for a few seasons. The beautiful creations were bejewelled, one-shouldered, well fitting and in an array of fantastical shapes, styles and colours. Some dresses sweep the floor with puffy net skirts, others are elegantly nipped in with sashes and bows. There were strapless jumpsuits in simple monotones, set off with the purest details. My favourite has to be the fantastic black sequined strapless dress, which reached to the floor and was surrounded by net: a vision of pure fashion fantasy. I want one.
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